Winter Weather Has Clamped Down Hard On An Exhausted Hydra

At the end of November, I managed a fast 5-day break off the island with my daughter Harriet to visit my Mother in the UK. It was a long-overdue visit to introduce my four-year-old grandson in person (Skype just isn't the same) to his Great-grandmother.

During our short holiday, the stress of restrictions changing in transit and our concerns about inadvertently catching, or worse passing on, the virus meant that neither Harriet nor I could enjoy our break 'in-the-moment.' Though in hindsight, we all had a smashing time. We made beautiful memories that we will treasure all the more because of the difficulties.

On the beach near Great-grandma's house  - you can probably tell from Anastasis' expression that his Mum should have been paying more attention!

But there was a collective sigh of relief once we safely returned home to Hydra. Our recent experience, had us marvelling at the determination shown by so many visitors who endured such a palaver to visit Hydra this summer.

For me, returning to Hydra on the 4th of December has drawn a line decisively separating a lively summer from a winter of hibernation. And I think it is fair to say that most people on Hydra feel the same, all anticipating a much-needed recharge of batteries for the next three or four months.

The latest restrictions imposed by the Omicron variant combined with particularly rough winter weather, causing Dolphin, Cat and Ferry cancellations, have effectively conspired to put islanders in a much more relaxed mode. There's always a silver lining to every cloud I find.

Having had a record-breaking summer's business season, islanders are happy and very relieved. But everyone is so exhausted that, unusually for Hydra, the island is not as open during the winter this year. A few intrepid visitors have booked to come for Christmas and the New Year, but they should understand, Hydra is much quieter than usual.

Many of the understaffed restaurants & businesses were running on fumes by the end of November and simply won't be able to keep it up over the winter. It was impossible to recruit seasonal staff last Spring because of the restrictions. So most businesses only had staff coverage for single shifts, with many owners working sixteen-hour days, seven days a week with no time off.

Photo courtesy of the Isalos Cafe

Popi will be open 7 nights all winter - booking is a good idea though as there's limited space.

Popi at To Geitonikon will be open for evening dinner only (18:30 - 22:30) every day of the week, including Christmas and New Years Day. With so few venues available, I strongly recommend booking in advance. In addition, the port will be kept cheerful with the En Plo, Bandera, Gogo, Hydra's Corner, Le Grande, Yamas & the Cool Mule outlets opening during the day. At the moment, the island's bars are all closed, although some might open for last-minute evenings. (Lisa just mentioned that it's likely that Kostas will open the Amalour for New Year's Eve, so lookout for their FB posts.)

All supermarkets, bakeries, groceries and butchers are open at regular hours. Quite a few retail shops are opening with limited hours that will vary depending on how many people are around and the weather.

Hellenic Seaways is currently only operating one Cat to and from Hydra per day. Alpha Lines will restart in the Spring. However, the Freedom passenger ferry will continue to operate four crossings per day so long as it's not too stormy to get across to Metochi or back.

Relatively, Hydra has been quite a safe haven, but we have had our fair share of sadness with several locals who have died because of Covid. In addition, as such a small community, everyone is aware of those islanders who are still in a hospital alone on the mainland suffering from the impact Covid has had on their health. And quite a few islanders are worrying about relatives who have caught the virus elsewhere in Greece but are not allowed to visit. Everyone is very mindful of those families who have lost loved ones, and I add my sympathy and condolences.

The schools on Hydra opened in September with precautions which was a relief to many hardworking parents. But it's been a bit of a double-edged sword. Having been so isolated for so long, with parents dousing their children in antiseptic and taking all the precautions recommended since March 2020, it's as though all of Hydra's children have been more susceptible to sharing annual colds. This year's RS virus style cold has spread to nearly half the island. Even I have succumbed to the violent coughing fits, a high temperature with a blasting headache that made me paranoid enough to reach for a Covid self-test. Happily, the result was negative, but it has prompted me to admit that maybe I have reached the age when an annual flu-jab is advisable. So visitors be warned: avoid mini-Hydriots, especially if they are runny-nosed or coughing.

The vaccination program on Hydra has been very well taken up, with the majority of over 12s being done and older age groups having had their boosters. After Christmas, vaccination for the five-year-old plus children will also start.

So for Hydra's winter visitors, please read my updated Covid Travel updates for the latest rule changes. Anticipate needing your vac-certs & PCR tests and masks, very changeable weather, Hydra's blooming countryside (rain & sunshine has brought on a Spring effect) beckons, shops will be open. And there will be at least two or three places to eat and socialise when you want some company.

Stay safe and happy holidays, regards, Kelsey